Hopefully you should be able to find your repair below or something very close to it.
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Q. I've worn a 1cm hole in a car removable rubber floor mat (Volkswagen if it makes any difference). Like most mats the surface has raised bumps, water channels etc.. Which Stormsure kit would be most suitable to patch the hole please?
A. You don’t really need everything from a repair kit, just the adhesive out of it which we sell separately. Stormsure Flexible Repair Adhesive will be best as it fills and plugs the holes and has a rubbery like finish to it when it has cured. The adhesive comes in Clear, White, Khaki and Black also (assuming the mat is black) which helps for aesthetics.
Q. I need to repair a couple of places on my convertible top. They are about 4" long (vertical) and gape open about 2". They are on each side near the ribs. It is a 2012 Mazda Miata MX-5. I need to repair them before I sell it. Do you feel this would work? I live in Texas and the temp gets to 100* outside and 120* inside the cockpit.
A. Firstly, we have no reason to believe the adhesive will not work although this is quite a major repair job with severe damage so preparation will be vitally important here to do a good job. I'm going to assume a few things here so excuse if I am getting it a little wrong or covering more than is required.
I'm assuming the roof can not be fully removed from the car? This would help by being able to lie the damaged area flat because the glue does run and takes 10-12 hours to cure fully. If you can not remove the roof then we would suggest applying tape to the areas underneath the damage if the glue does run then it will not go over the the rest of the roof. Also to actually apply the glue in thinner layers. This will help prevent the glue from running as much. You may need two or three layers and will make the job much longer to do but will be safer.
You do not need tape to repair the holes as the glue is the actual repair. However on the inside if you can, you will want to bring the edges of the teared roof as close together as you can and then also hold it all in place whilst you apply the glue. Then you can use the tape on the inside just to hold everything in place and then apply the glue onto the outside. The tape can then be removed afterwards. Do not use material tape. Use sellotape or brown packing tape or similar.
Once you are happy everything is in position. Make sure the damaged area is clean and dry before you apply the glue. Then just apply the glue into the hole/tear and a little around the tear (1cm over the tear) to give that extra strength. Apply with a paint brush or spatula and also in thin layers. This process with 3 layers will take 3 days. One layer per day so to give chance for the glue to cure properly each time. If any glue does run, you can use something like ethyl acetate or nail polish remover to remove the glue but only whilst the glue is still wet. Once the glue cures it is virtually impossible to get off because the glue does seep into the fabric. Which is a good thing for a strong lasting repair.
One thing to keep in mind; The glue is a polyurethane glue, which means it has rubber qualities when cured. Perfect for this type of repair but when the glue has cured it can be quite shiny to begin with, which may or may not look great for aesthetics purposes. To improve this, once the glue has cured, then you can lightly sand paper the glue, careful not to damage the roof fabric. This will just scuff the top of the glue up and help take away the shine to fit better with the fabric. Obviously make sure the glue has fully cured first. It won't be shiny for long though as just general wear and dust takes the shine off quite quickly (within a few weeks).
The glue will handle temperatures up to 200°F or 90°C and also down to extreme minus temperatures so the conditions are not a problem. In extreme humidity and heat though it can take a little longer to cure. Curing time for the glue is normally 10-12 hours.
To do the area you are talking about you will probably require more glue than what comes in the repair kit as that only comes with one 5g tube of glue. You will likely need the much larger 90g tube.
I hope this helps a bit. It is a major repair job and hope it goes ok.
Q. I have a small rip in the mesh fly screen of my campervan pop up roof. What can I use to repair it?
A. Depending on where the rip is you may be able to use some tape, TUFF Tape to repair it but perhaps the safest option is to use Stormsure Flexible repair Adhesive if the rip is not too large. Try and bring the edges of the ripped material together and apply the adhesive over the join covering at least 1cm over where the rip is giving extra coverage to the repair.
Q. Hi, I purchased the car top repair kit (clear). I'm not certain about how to use the patches and the glue. I have a tear in the roof vinyl. Should I put the patch on the inside and glue on the outside or just use one or the other, but not both? Or should I put glue on the inside and then the patch overtop of the glue? I would like to keep the outside as original looking as possible, so doing the repair on the inside would be best, I think.
A. This really depends on how you want the finished look to look like. It is definitely easier to apply the glue on the outside. You would first put the patch on the underside (inside) to stop the glue from running through. Really you want the glue to fill the hole as well as cover an area of approx. 1cm around the hole. Due to gravity, the glue will run through and drip through if the patch wasn't there. The patch can be removed afterwards, once the glue has cured or you can leave it on.
Q. I have a set of rubber floor mats in my 1979 VW camper. The mats are about 15 years old and mostly in good condition but there are folds along the edges of the mats which have split. Would your product be suitable for repairing these mats?
A. You would probably need an adhesive for the lasting repair. Our Stormsure Flexible Repair Adhesive would be best as when it cures (dries) is is rubbery like, durable and flexible. We supply the adhesive in black as well, assuming the mats are black.
Q. I saw a video about patching a rip in a convertible top. How about a seam that is splitting? I have tried E6000 but it does not hold up to the UV. Is your adhesive a different chemistry and will it hold up to UV?
A. Stormsure Flexible Repair Adhesive is completely different to E6000. Much stronger. It is a polyurethane based adhesive which is moisture curing (not when solvent evaporates, like other glues). This means, when cured, it has a rubbery like feel to it. Which means it is durable and flexible, it stretches a little and is also completely waterproof. Ideal for the type of repair you are doing.
We supply it in clear, black, khaki and white colours. The clear does go a little yellowy after long periods (a few months) in the sun but the others don’t due to the colouring. The decolouring of the clear adhesive does not affect its performance.
The glue is UV resistant and holds to temperatures up to approx 80 degrees Celsius.
Q. The outside of my car soft top roof just at one point has got some wear on it. It's not easily accessible from inside and is not worn through yet but is wearing thin. It's like it's been rubbed / abraded perhaps a cat? I was wondering if it would be OK to smear a small amount of Stormsure on this rough patch from the outside of the car to strengthen the canvas . The roof is faded black - would black or clear be better?
A. Yes Stormsure would work well here. You may need to brush it over the whole area with a paint brush or spatula or similar to give a smooth covering.
The black Stormsure will show up against the faded black as the black Stormsure is jet black so maybe for aesthetics purposes the clear might be best but that is up to you.
It’s actually better doing the repair now because it is more preventative. The glue does seep into the material a little and this gives it extra hold. It will be completely waterproof when fully cured. Ideally it would be best if the surface area is flat as the glue takes 10-12 hours to cure properly so be aware of glue dripping if the surface coverage area is not flat and you may want to tape around and cover the areas that you don’t want the glue to drip/run onto to.
Q. I have a pretty big hole in my leather steering wheel. The black stuff underneath it is some kind of thick foam. Do you think your product would work to fill in the hole? And if so, can I then dye it with the same stuff that I used to shine the black leather a few years ago?
If your stuff can fill the hole and can be dyed to where it looks nice, will it feel weird on that spot? It's a high use area of the wheel obviously. After that, the car will sit in the hot sun here in Georgia, US. We get a lot of 98 degree F temps here and the windows are up at times so that's hotter yet on the inside of the car.
If the product won't work or look or feel good, I'll just get a steering wheel cover, but those have their problems too.
A. Firstly the temperature is not a problem. It is fine up to approx 80 degrees Celsius which is approx 190 F.As the adhesive is a polyurethane adhesive and is moisture curing, it may take longer than the 10-12 hours to cure depending on the humidity there. (It will start curing when it comes into contact with the air).
We do supply the adhesive in black so for aesthetics it should be ok. Due to the nature of the adhesive, we use a specialist dye to dye the adhesive as it reacts differently and can not be solvent based.Our polyurethane glue is completely different to most other glues given that it does not cure when a solvent evaporates only with moisture. When cured this gives it, it's rubbery like feel. It is durable and flexible (it stretches a little if required). It will be completely waterproof as well.
You would have to be careful in this instance because the glue will run down the steering wheel so you will need to put something on and around the area you need filling to keep it there whilst it cures.You can speed up the curing process by adding water to the adhesive, this speeds it up to approx 4-6 hours but will also thin the adhesive down so you will have to gauge that yourself what ind of thickness you need.Preparation would be key here to make sure you get a nice finish on it. The glue will look quite shiny after cured (shinier than the rest of the steering wheel!) but that will come down after use.All in all it will work and fill the area. You can use a spatula to similar to smooth the finish. But you will need to prepare the area first well so the glue has time to cure in place properly for long enough.
You can either purchase directly from us on the website. You would probably only need one smaller 5g tube to complete the job which we sell in packs of 3. We ship from the UK and normal delivery times to the US is around 5-7 days. We use USPS for the delivery.
The item is also available on Amazon.com also.
We do obviously supply larger tubes but in this instance just one 5g tube should be enough.
If you do purchase larger tubes, the we suggest storing part used tubes in the freezer. Firstly try and squeeze as much air out of tube as possible before placing the cap back on otherwise the glue will cure inside the tube with air/moisture trapped inside. Then put it in the freezer. The glue can freeze and this helps to stop the glue curing inside the tube if any air is trapped inside. When you want to use again, simply heat the glue back up, put it in a cup of hot water until squidgy again and you are good to go. This process can be repeated over and over again.
IF you do get glue somewhere you didn’t want to if it runs and drips then you will need to clean it whilst it is still wet. Use a solvent like acetone or nail polish remover and it should wipe off. If the glue has cured and you want to get it off then it is extremely difficult. You will need to use sand paper and sand it off or pick at it with a scalpel or knife. The glue is extremely strong! Use gloves also otherwise you’ll be picking at your skin for days!
I hope this helps.